The brooch has been declared dead and resurrected so many times over the course of fashion history that at this point we should probably stop tracking its vital signs and simply accept that it is, constitutionally, immortal.

What has changed is not whether brooches are in fashion — they always are, somewhere — but how thoughtful, modern women are choosing to wear them. In the 1950s and early 60s, arguably the golden age of brooch adornment, a single bold brooch helped anchor an entire look; whether that be a starburst on a silk shirt collar, a rhinestone cluster on the lapel of a structured wool coat, or a bold cabochon on neckline of a cocktail dress.

Today, women are styling brooches as versatile, modern accessories, adopting a “more is more” philosophy and accenting outfits in new, creative ways.

"The brooch is the one piece of jewelry that rewards real knowledge of proportion. When you get it right, it looks effortless. When you get it wrong, you know immediately."

On Placement

The traditional lapel position — left side, chest height — remains the most reliable. It works with blazers, structured coats, and heavier knits in a way that reads as elevated and intentional. For a modern twist on this look, embrace the maximalist trend of clustering a mix of new and vintage pieces on a blazer lapel or sweater neckline.

Another classic take is the brooch worn at the very center of a shirt collar. This placement works particularly well with mid-century-inspired starburst pieces, whose radial symmetry reads with polished sophistication, or a bejeweled bow for a playfully feminine accent.

While these are a few tried-and-true options, there is really no wrong way to wear a brooch in 2026. We’re in love with some of the inspired placements spotted across runways, red carpets, and city streets in recent months: try utilizing your collection as a waist cinch, scarf closure, hair accessory, faux cuff links, or on a hat, belt, or purse.

On Scale

The brooch is the one piece of jewelry that rewards real knowledge of proportion. When you get it right, it looks effortless. When you get it wrong, you know immediately. The most common mistake is choosing a piece that's too small for the context: a brooch that reads beautifully on a display card will sometimes disappear entirely against the visual field of a coat or a sweater.

Balance your big statement pieces with your tiny treasures by knowing the time and place for each: a large, figural pin is perfect for a one-and-done pop on a purse or lapel, while smaller brooches work beautifully as a cluster or tailored accent on an otherwise understated collar. But it’s hard to go "too big" or "too bold" with this creative and versatile accessory.

American costume jewelry reached a peak in the mid-twentieth century it has never quite equaled. The companies and makers working in this era — Trifari, Coro, Weiss, Schreiner, Miriam Haskell, Renoir & Matisse, and DeLizza & Elster among them — were producing pieces of genuine artistry: complex constructions in rhodium-plated brass, aurora borealis glass, hand-set rhinestones, and molded cabochons that rewarded close attention.

What drove this? Partly the postwar economic expansion, which put disposable income into the hands of a broad middle class that wanted to dress well. Partly the influence of Hollywood and the fashion press, which celebrated jewelry with an enthusiasm that seems almost foreign today. And partly the extraordinary talent of the designers themselves, many of them trained in fine jewelry traditions they were now applying to more accessible materials.

"The best costume jewelry was not pretending to be something it wasn't. It was celebrating what it was — craftsmanship, imagination, and ornament for its own sake."

A Few Makers Worth Knowing

Trifari, under the design direction of Alfred Philippe, produced the starbursts, floral sprays, and fruit salad pieces that remain the era's most iconic work. Philippe had trained at Van Cleef & Arpels; his sensibility was genuinely fine jewelry, applied to rhodium and glass with remarkable results.

Weiss, a smaller house, was known for its exceptionally high-quality rhinestone work — particularly its aurora borealis stones, which caught light with an iridescence that still stops collectors cold. Schreiner, working in New York, favored an inverted-stone technique that gave his pieces an unusually dimensional quality. And Renoir & Matisse pioneered the use of copper as a primary material, producing modernist cuffs and brooches with a sculptural quality that felt genuinely different from everything else on the market.

Why It Matters Now

These pieces were designed for real wearing — for the cocktail party, the theater, the dinner that mattered. The best costume jewelry was not pretending to be something it wasn't. It was celebrating what it was — craftsmanship, imagination, and ornament for its own sake. They were not museum objects. And yet they were made with enough care and quality that many of them have survived sixty years of wearing and still look extraordinary. That combination of wearability and durability is what we try to carry forward at Lark & Rowe.

Our hand-crafted jewelry is built to be worn. But with a few simple habits, pieces that already reward wearing can last for decades — looking as good at thirty years as they did on the day you bought them. Rhodium plate and rhinestone settings are more resilient than most people assume, and less demanding than fine jewelry. They do, however, have specific preferences.

"The enemy of costume jewelry is not wear — it's the wrong kind of contact. Perfume, moisture, and abrasion will do more damage in a year than a decade of regular wearing ever would."

Rhodium Plate

Rhodium is extremely hard and tarnish-resistant, which is why it was the plating of choice for the finest mid-century costume jewelry. The vulnerability is not the rhodium itself but the base metal beneath it — typically brass — which can show through if the plate wears thin. The best prevention is to avoid contact with perfume, hairspray, and lotions, all of which accelerate wear. Put your jewelry on last, after everything else.

For cleaning, a soft dry cloth is almost always sufficient. If more cleaning is needed, a very slightly damp cloth — not wet — followed by immediate drying. Never submerge rhodium-plated pieces in water, and never use ultrasonic cleaning devices, which can loosen stone settings.

Rhinestone Settings

Rhinestones are set, not glued, in quality jewelry pieces — which means the settings themselves need attention. Prongs can bend slightly over years of wear, and if a stone works loose it can be lost. We recommend a quick visual check every few months: look at each stone and make sure it sits securely. If anything feels loose, a jeweler can re-tip the prongs quickly and inexpensively.

Aurora borealis stones — the iridescent-coated rhinestones that appear in many of our pieces — have a coating that can be damaged by harsh chemicals. Keep them away from anything acidic, and store pieces individually so the stones don't scratch against each other.

Storage

The simplest storage advice: keep pieces separate. A dedicated jewelry roll or individual pouches prevent the scratching and tangling that causes most storage damage. Keep away from direct sunlight and humidity. A cool, dry drawer is ideal.

Whether you prefer dainty designs or bold statements, 2026 has revival style in store for every kind of jewelry wearer. Here are five of the vintage-inspired trends that are hitting runways and top of fashion expert’s must-have lists.

A Stone Cut Above

Colorful and uniquely cut gemstones are set to define 2026, with tanzanite’s indigo-violet hues leading the trend on both runways and red carpets. Expect to see a return to antique-inspired and elongated stone cuts, as well as pieces with bold single stones in oval and square shapes.

Going for Gold

Yellow gold is a timeless classic that will remain popular in 2026. When selecting gold and gold-toned pieces this spring, go bold. Stacked rings, sculptural earrings, and heavy bands make a luxe statement that’s confident, classic, and effortlessly chic.

Poignant Pendants

One inescapable trend this season is the statement pendant. Whether that’s a large natural stone on a cord necklace or an oversized disk on a gold omega chain, this is the perfect style to dress up for an avante garde accent or pair with a silk blouse and trousers for chic office attire.

Fringe Goes Mainstream

Tassels had a major moment in fashion in 2025, and now they're in full swing for the 2026 summer festival season. Earrings, necklaces, and even bracelets are embracing movement, texture, and drama. Tassel necklaces and earrings work just as well with a white tee and jeans as they do with an evening dress, making the look playful, wearable, and endlessly eye-catching.

Trail-Blazing Brooches

The brooch has always been a jewelry staple, but it’s truly being rediscovered in 2026. There’s a new freedom to pin beyond the lapel, with people wearing them in their hair, fastening them on bags, or even clustering several together across a neckline. Whimsical and figural designs are all the rage, including playful florals inspired by mid-century modern design.